Celebrate the 100 most impactful leaders in culture, the Gold100. Click here for full list.

Chitose Abe

Founder and Creative Director, Sacai

Chitose Abe is the founder and creative director of Sacai, a brand that has redefined modern luxury through its signature “hybrid” aesthetic. Before launching her own label in 1999, Abe spent eight years at Comme des Garçons, where she worked as a pattern maker under Rei Kawakubo and later joined Junya Watanabe’s design team. This rigorous background in avant-garde construction provided the foundation for her unique ability to deconstruct classic garments—such as trench coats, MA-1 bomber jackets, and knitwear—and splice them together into entirely new, multidimensional silhouettes.

Based in Tokyo, Abe initially started Sacai as a small project out of her home while on maternity leave, knitting just five pieces. Since then, she has scaled the brand into a global fashion powerhouse without ever taking on outside investors, maintaining total creative and financial independence. Her design philosophy centers on the idea that clothing should be wearable and functional but also unexpected from every angle. This “Sacai-ism” has made her one of the most respected figures in the industry, leading to her selection as the first guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture collection in 2021.

In recent years, Abe’s influence has permeated mainstream culture through her long-standing partnership with Nike, where her “LDWaffle” and “VaporWaffle” collaborations became some of the most sought-after sneakers of the decade. By 2026, she continues to lead Sacai with a focus on “timeless innovation,” recently expanding the brand’s reach through a high-profile collaboration with Cartier and further refining her modular approach to fashion. Despite her global fame, Abe remains deeply involved in the technical aspects of her collections, personally overseeing the intricate pattern-making and fabric developments that ensure each hybrid piece retains its structural integrity.